Visiting relatives in Portland

January 21, 2008   

On Friday I delivered Astra the Farr 40 over to SFYC for the crew to race at the weekend. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to race as I needed to visit relatives in Oregon. I got to SFYC just in time to get to the airport and was very lucky to get into the dock as it was a minus tide and I crept in with less than 6″ under the keel. The crew weren’t so lucky on Saturday they ended up aground. Anyways I digress. It was a cold delivery and was dark by the time I docked the boat and quickly jumped in the car. My brother, sister in law and nephew were meant to come with me but they were sick so decided to cancel especially as the trip was to visit ailing relatives. My parents got to Portland during the day on friday I ended up pulling into the cousins driveway at midnight very tired after a non stop 18 hour day.

 We stayed at our cousins christmas tree farm they have just purchased Kirk Company which is a 90 year old christmas tree wholesaler selling trees throughout the world. The trees come from Oregon, Wisconsin and Nova Scotia. The house is surrounded by fields with rows and rows of christmas trees all neatly pruned. There is also a pond in the back garden. It was typical cold wet weather the sky seems really low in Portland maybe it is from the paper mill smoke. Every time I drive past the paper mills I ask my father the same question – so what did grandpa do there?  He was a very important trade unionist and he led a revolt against another trade union group however, I didn’t experience that side of my grandpa. I just remember him making me eat porridge swimming in milk with little pink sweetner packets – yuk!

 We had a great family dinner on saturday night of BBQ steaks and dessert of birthday cake. On Sunday we had the traditional crab feast that I always remember having as a child – it sure is good. It was sad to see the relatives all growing old and the problems they are having it reminds me to live everyday to the fullest and to try and be less in a rush!

 Monday the alarm went off at 5am and off to the airport to get my parents on the first flight to San Francisco. I was full fare to Oakland as that was where my car was. I made the mistake of booking southwest instead of united and regeretted it when I had to pay more to get on an earlier flight so I could get back in time for work. Yes even after my resolution of slowing down I hit the ground in Oakland running as I needed to be motoring out of CYC on Astra by 12:45 at the latest otherwise I would have a problem with the tide. It was a miserable delivery across the bay really really cold and the rain was blowing sideways even in my musto gear it was not a fun day to be out on the water. I motored into the dock at 2:30pm and after measuring the protector up for new lines that run along the outside of the tubes I went home to a hot ribena and a hot water bottle. Time for bed….

Chainsaws, 2 x 4’s and plywood

January 17, 2008   

I spent the last week cleaning up from the storm we had two weeks ago. I learnt all about using chainsaws and the pie cutting techniques, googling chainsawing is interesting! They require bar oil, have a break so that if jumps your hand stops the saw from going, the chain becomes slacker with use like a diesal engine fan belt so it has to be tightened etc. I really enjoyed working on outdoor projects in the sun and adding to my brothers wood pile for his fireplace. I miss having a good fire going during the winter. As you can see from the picture the dog made sure I was doing everything right. It’s a good thing I bought a pick up truck a few years ago.

I also built myself a tool shed that is 18 foot long and 3 foot wide under the eaves of the garage. It is watertight and has a work bench on one side and lots of shelving for all my offshore emergency gear, saws etc. I have been getting very frustrated with trying to find my tools in the messy garage where they get piled everything I leave. Now I have a tool area with a large lock that my brother won’t have the combo to! This weekend I am off to Oregon to visit the relatives. Have a great weekend.

Cruising Boat Build

January 13, 2008   

I spent last week down in Santa Ana (LA) working on a 40 foot cruising boat at Westerley Marine. I flew down to Westerley and tried to make some sense of the random parts that were thrown into the boat before it left the old yard. I inventoried the boat, cleaned it up, protected the woodwork that is in the boat and came up with some design ideas to make the beautiful lines of the boat evident. We will not be installing the metal work that makes it look a little like a sports fishing boat! The boat is now all put to bed awaiting a slot in the yard schedule to officially start the finish of the build. Meanwhile I have lots of shopping to do – rudder stocks, bearings, blades, refridgeration compressors, plates, wichard padeyes, masts, booms etc. I also have to put together a picture of how the jigsaw pieces go together as we don’t have many drawing of the boat. Luckily there are 14 completed boats out there I just have to find out how to get in touch with them.

A Friday Ashore

January 6, 2008   

I awoke like everyone in the Bay Area on Friday morning to a ‘war’ zone – hurricane force winds and torrential rain. Not a day to be out on a boat but to be by a wood fire or in an office in front of a computer. I received a phone call from one of my parent’s tenants that the front gate was pulling itself to pieces. As I walked out of the door the skylight (6 foot by 2.5 feet) that hadn’t been screwed down on the porch roof went airborne and landed on the concrete pathway with a crash right next to me. The glass some how didn’t break but the metal frame was a little damaged.   In my infinite wisdom I was wearing ‘smart’ clothing as I didn’t intend to do any manual labor that day. I had a meeting in Tiburon but as it was blowing dogs of chains and raining buckets I was wearing my Hunter wellies. It was near high tide so 101N ramp was flooded and I had to divert. After my meeting I headed to the yacht club to check in on my brother’s boat and my customers boats. So you would have thought I would be warm and dry seeing as I have four sets of HPX Musto hanging in my cupboard as well as a dry suit – but no – I was in chinos and a windstopper fleece!  All hell was breaking loose at the YC (pictures below taken by John Arndt at CYC) the tide was up to within 3 feet of the top of the breakwater and the visibility was bad.

 

It was blowing so hard the waves had flattened out and there was a wall of salt water spray coming at me as I attempted to walk down the docks. The last boat I checked in on was lying against the boat next door and the bow was up against the dock. The chain that held the aft leading spring and stern line to the tire on the end of the dock had snapped! You could have thought the line would go before the chain I guess the line being nylon was stretching. As the boat was bow on the dock I was able to climb on the bow and found some mooring lines to re secure the boat. Lesson learnt – always have two different chains and not connect two lines to the same chain – that way you might only lose one line and not two. Luckily there was no damage to the bow or the side of the boat as fenders were out in between the boats. I called the owner and left a message telling her I had been aboard. On a boat across the way a jib had half unfurled itself creating a large pocket of sail which was catching the wind and slamming the boat to a 30% angle away from the dock threatening to interlock it’s mast with the neighbors boat. The jib was going to rip itself to shreds. I asked someone on the dock if the harbor master needed help securing the jib – the only way I thought we could do it assuming we could actually get on the boat was to wrap a halyard around the forestay many times and then use a winch to winch the halyard tight and collapse the sail. Apparently the owner had been informed and didn’t want anything to be done.  Lesson learnt – always secure the furling drum (the line was missing from the drum so it was able to turn) and also put a sail tie through the clew and around the sail when leaving the boat for a while. After checking in with the boats and being drenched through it was time to go around my parents rental properties to see if there was any major damage. I was pretty much the only person out on the roads. In total we lost about 50 feet of fencing, a shed, a honeysuckle vine as the lattice it was climbing blew down, quite a few limbs off a cypress tree, a skylight, a gate and power for the day. I went to the hardware store (the normal one I go to was flooded) the only place open in town Mill Valley (the center was a ghost town) there were people asking for flashlights – the owner was laughing he had sold out 4 hours before, the phone was ringing continuously with people wanting generators! When I got back to my house there was quite a few large branches down from the cypress tree unfortunately they had fallen into the neighbours yard and straddled the fence.  

So it was time to use the trusty De Walt sawzall my brother had given me for Christmas last year. It worked a treat. Three hours later I had a pick up truck full of branches ready for a dump run on Saturday morning. So you can imagine what the rest of my weekend involved! Fences, dump runs, lots of mud and rain J Monday 4am I am off to LA to work on a 40 footer as I am project managing the building of it. Have a great week.  

36 Hours in Sydney

December 24, 2007   

12 midnight – I come on watch and stay on for the rest of the day as we will be reaching landfall by 6am. The AIS system and radar show up to 12 ships waiting for pilots to guide them into the harbor.

 

6am: Sydney Heads as the sun came up a narrow entrance with south flowing current. Arriving by boat in a city is much more enjoyable than by 747. Sydney Bay is narrow with many coves to explore.

 

6:15: Harbor cruise – the Opera House (smaller than I imagined), Kirribilli point, the Prime Ministers residence, Circular Quay, the Royal Botanical Gardens and under the Harbor Bridge. The stewardess is afraid we aren’t going to fit and the mast is going to come down. I tell her to go up the rig with one of the fenders!

 

6:30: We manually let down the bow thruster and attempt to engage it. It starts kicking back up into the hull so we rig a line strapping it in place. We dock at ….. to clear customs, quarantine and immigration.

 

7:00-9:45: Customs, Immigration and Quarantine. Searched by the yellow Customs labs the dogs were cute fitted with little socks so as not to damage anything. The dogs work for 15 minute shift so their attention doesn’t wonder. Up on the dinghy cover, inside the dinghy cover with only their tails showing, down into the chain locker, on the teak and varnished dining room tables etc!

 

9:45am – 6pm: We have a full day of work on the boat cleaning up after the delivery and getting ready for the owners trip.

 

6:00-10:00pm: Dinner at the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia where a large pre race (Sydney Hobart) party rages on. I spot a friend who raced on Yeoman with me in the Fastnet. The wind has come up and the Rolex flags flutter off the forestay in the wind. We go for a walk along the docks boat spotting and come across Shogun the IRC46 hull 3. I see many differences to the boat which solve some of the issues we found after our miles on Yeoman.

 

8:00-12 midday: A late wake up for me make the crew a breakfast of English pancakes as we had no lemons for me to make them during the delivery – something I normally do. Rigging chores before going into town – the main halyard needs to be shortened and reloaded on the captive winch.

 

12:45-3pm: Drop the chef and stewardess in town and park in the Domain. Carols in the Park is that night the stage is set, people stream into the park and a little village of tents has sprung up on the grass in front of the stage. It is humid everyone tucks into their picnics I grab an ice cream. Quick walk through the Art Gallery and then onto the Botanical Gardens walking along the water front to the Opera House. Bats are hanging in the trees, many different birds fly around the gardens and there are lots of interesting plant species to look at. It is a Saturday and the gardens are teeming with people. Back in the car around Hyde Park and navigate myself back to the boat 20 minutes out of town.  

3pm: Change into airplane cloths, leaving my uniform onboard, eat yet another beautifully prepared lunch by our chef and off to the airport for a 24 hour flight.

 

4pm: In a very long queue at the airport to check in don’t get to the ticket counter until 10 minutes before the flights scheduled departure of 6pm. The flight is overbooked I am told I am on standby (along with 7 others) not something I want to hear. I find the supervisor and tell her I am happy to go on QF31 via Singapore (overbooked as well). I tell her I have flown standby for 25 years and would love to make it out that night but understand the flight is in an oversold situation. My concern is my ticket says not eligible for denied boarding compensation – not something I want to read I keep silent about this. The check in agent is under pressure one seat and she has to choose who goes everyone stands in front of her listening to her conversation. She picks me saying I deserve to get on after 25 years of standby but says can’t guarantee a good seat. I am happy to sit in the worst seat in the plane I just want to go home. She hands me a ticket – joy of joy it is a business class ticket all the way back to London I run through customs, security and sweating arrive at the gate. We sit on the plane at the waiting for a connecting flight with 40 passengers to land. We take off almost 2 hours late I look out the window (very happily I am seated in business) and am able to spot the yacht I sailed in on at her dock in Balmain – thank you for a safe trip I murmur in her direction. Goodbye Sydney.

Auckland to Sydney

December 20, 2007   

I am sitting in Sydney Harbor got in this morning at 6am local time. The delivery from Auckland to Sydney was altogether uneventful which was great for catching up on paperwork and indicative of the high standard of work done on the boat at ORAMS. The most excitement was when the freezer started to defrost and the ice cream went runny! This was the result of one of the levers (controlling the water to the cooling pump for the freezer) being turned off in the bilge when the hydraulics guys were working on the vang adjustments. The only wildlife we saw were a few dolphins as we made our way up the east coast towards Cape Reinga.

The picture shows Poor Knights Islands Marine Reserve just before sunset established in 1981 and rated as one of the top diving spots in the world it is 24km off the east coast of NZ’s northland. The two large islands Tawhiti Rangi and Aorangi are sacred to Maori’s as they were the scene of a massacre of the Ngati-wai tribe in the early 1800’s. You can’t land on the islands but can anchor off of them and dive.

It is a continuous learning experience for me on how to balance this boat it is very different from a racing boat. Before the winds really picked up we had a small amount of the main up and some jib however, on the waves the boom (despite the preventer) would move in and then flop back out putting a large amount of strain on the rigging. I decided the best thing was to center the main and then was going to get Tim up to do something with the main. He was sitting in the pilot house when I came in as the commotion had got him up. Basically the weight of the boom was such that we needed more main to keep the boom out there however, with the forecast for higher winds we decided to be conservative and furl the main in completely. We spent the night with a handkerchief of a jib out, no main and engine at 1600 rpm.

That night we had the predicted high winds (gusting to 40 and continuously high 30s) and big seas (the spray was blowing off the top) leaving our new stewardess Sally shrieking at a few of the large rolls. Tim mentioned these were the worst conditions he had been in on this boat. On one particular roll the boom touched the water and there was a wave that broke over the cabin top. I was fully interrogated about why the boat would not roll on its side seeing as the mast is so much longer than the keel. I assured her that this boat is built like a ˜brick s*** house being an aluminum hull. I went to bed thinking about the kids rowing the Tasman hoping for their sake that they had cleared the area that we were in see http://www.crossingtheditch.com.au/ . A guy had attempted this crossing two months ago and died in the attempt it is not really somewhere to be in a row boat.

See a picture taken by a friend of Albatross. We saw a few on the trip they are such graceful creatures. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albatross for more about them.

A week before our departure from Auckland the bow thruster motor had packed it in and a new one was hard to find so the guys at Holton Engineering fabricated a come along system allowing us to manually bring the bow thruster up and down. We checked every hour along with our engine checks to insure that the bow thruster was in the up position. One night we had some heavy pounding from the seas and we grew concerned about the bow thruster door being properly sealed. Luckily for Tim the seas died down so he didn’t have to suit up in dive gear and go over the side to visual inspect the door.

This was my first time to Australia and as we made such good time across the Tasman I was actually in Sydney for 36 hours. Enough time to see the famous Opera house as we entered the Bay and to go for dinner at the CYC the club who runs the Sydney Hobart Race.

It seems silly to have left only 3 days before the start of the Sydney Hobart Race. It is a race that I have wanted to do for a long while however, my family has the Christmas tree all ready in the UK so time to get on a long plane trip home.

Happy Holidays everyone.

Captive Winches

December 19, 2007   

 

There are a lot of systems on the super yachts. One which has caused a bit of a headache is the captive winch for the main halyard. The winch is located under the galley floor in the bilge so working on it requires doubling yourself over and fitting in between pipes etc. Basically the main halyard wraps around the drum as the mainsail is hoisted. There is a load cell (see picture below) in one of the sheaves feeding the drum which ‘feels’ the pressure on the halyard telling the drum when to work and when not to. There is a ‘shuttle’ which runs from left to right as the halyard is hoisted loading the halyard around the drum in a tight coil. The halyard has to be the right length and diameter otherwise it fills the drum before the main is all the way up.

 

At the refit in New York they put on a new halyard which was a 1/8 inch larger diameter then what was specified – doesn’t sound like much however, this combined with the riggers making it a bit longer than the old one led to the halyard jamming on the captive winch. These things never happen when it is dead calm we were actually trying to reef the main as it had ‘jumped’ the captive winch after overfilling the drum and then shredded the cover. The main mandrel (in boom furling drum) stopped turning as it wasn’t getting feedback from the captive winch so the main had a pocket in it allowing the 25 knots of wind to catch it and slam the rig back and forth. I went up in the climbing harness on the spinnaker halyard taking with me the topping lift from the end of the boom (not easy to get to as the boom was swing around so much). I attached the topping lift to the head of the main (again not easy to hold on to the rig which I was being slammed against it) and removed the main halyard attaching a down haul to it so it could be cleared out of the way. We then had control of the mainsail however, the captive winch needed to be cleared so I spent a few hours in the bilge with a razor blade cutting away the damaged cover and unwinding the halyard from the winch.

 

On the trip from Auckland to Sydney again I spent some time in the bilge as the halyard is doubling over on itself as it is a little too long. However, we are now aware of the situation so can solve the problem before it becomes stuck and we shred a halyard. In Sydney I will be shortening the halyard and this should fix the issue.

Goodbye Auckland

December 12, 2007   

After 2 months in Auckland it will be a sad farwell tomorrow. I have enjoyed my last two months refitting the boat by week and spending the weekends exploring the NZ countryside. All the workers on the boat created a high standard of work and she is now put together. Today we went out for a test sail that was not sucessful due to a few system failures and I had a steep learning curve. We are going to go for a test sail tomorrow morning at 7:30am and if all goes well we will send the riggers and sailmakers back in by RIB so that we can clear customs and leave immediately. I have a flight to catch out of Sydney on the 20th to make so it looks like my first visit to Australia will involve seeing the Opera House from boat as we enter the harbor and then less than 16 hours later seeing it below me from a 747.

 UPDATE: We have postponed departure until December 15th due to an adverse weather scenario building in the Tasman. This means no christmas tree shopping trip with my newphew Henry 🙁 oh well this is the nature of my job.

Super Yacht Crew

December 7, 2007   

I am lying in my starboard guest cabin after a pretty exhausting week. It started with a Monday night stepping of the rig (finishing at dark 9:30pm) and ended with cleaning the teak until 8:00pm Friday night. We start our work day at 7am and up until this last crazy period of wrapping up we were finishing at 4pm. I decided a 40 hour work week is what life is all about!

For the last week and half since I got back from Mexico I have had a temperature and been really sore. Fever broke last night I woke up drenched in sweat – nice eh!!! Haven’t been sick like that since I can remember last. Last night at 11:30pm the new chef knocked on my door to tell me there was an alarm going off and I had taken Nyquil. Seeing as the varnishers had been in to do the steps up the the pilot house I had to climb out the escape hatch from the crew mess in my PJ’s to get up to the pilot house. Not really a large feat however I don’t know if it is because I am tea total but that nyquil made me feel like I had just been to the knot and shot at KWRW after a large night at the beer tent!

The skipper comes back after 5 1/2 weeks away tomorrow morning at 6:30am and there is a lot to do before we can leave on Tuesday. The bow thruster motor decided to pack it in on Monday so we will most likely have to jury rig it. The hydraulics guy didn’t label the lines right so he has the vang buttons working the halyard tension! Just a few small things that might stop us going sailing! Great project manager I am 🙂 At least the rig is on, the sails are on (mostly), the boat hasn’t sunk at the dock and the white carpets are still white. Looking forward to sailing the Farr 40 in January where there are no bow thruster, furling mains, half halyards with hydraulic rams or lots and lots of teak to clean.

Paige Brooks story of Etchells 667

December 6, 2007   

Paige Brooks sailed in Fleet 12 for a few years before moving to Florida and joining Miami Fleet 20. She sold her San Francisco boat this month and writes in a farewell from the site of the Jaguar Cup: 

From: Paige Brooks

Subject: Re: Scarlett – Etchells 667 – Thank you! (and a little story) On May 2, of 2003 and again in February of 2004, I had two of the happiest days of boat ownership. Buying the boat with Dan Zuiches and Danielle Dignan and then buying it from them. This week I sold 667 to another trio, this time J24 owners who are switching into Etchells and are taking it to Denver. While this is supposed to be the next happiest day of boat ownership and I expected to be relieved, I’ve also found myself a bit sentimental. So this letter is to all of you who’ve helped make the memories and sailed with me on 667. Thank you.

In the racing we were met with challenging competitors – sailors who’d raced etchells for more than 20 years, who’d competed at the top level of the sport. We learned a lot and had a lot of fun, thanks to the tough competition.

One race I won’t soon forget:

During the Simpson Cup, a “gear buster” of a regatta, we were sailing downwind in front of the St. Francis when our vang broke. Kers yelled over to us to pull in our vang and when I said “it’s broken,” he yelled back “well sit on the boom then”. And so I rode the boom the rest of the way down to the finish line, bouncing along with each wave. This was also the weekend I met another kind former Olympic sailor Kent Massey, visiting from Santa Barbara to race Etchells, who took time out from catching up with friends to take me outside, throw a leaf on the water, and teach me about tides and currents. Sounds silly, but it instantly worked in explaining what ‘current protection’ means.

With three partners, you have the benefit of always having crew. Without three you have to find them. Jack Roosevelt jumped on early and brought with him Ethan Doyle. They were both aboard the first (and only, so far) time I death rolled. They also sailed me to a win over Shark Kahn, just after he’d won Melges Worlds. Boy did that feel good.

Matt Carter who helped a lot with suggestions on bow work, did bow for my good friend Roy Haslup and me for the Mosely Cup. Bill Clary who sailed Etchells in Marblehead and Ashley Perrin, who’s got tons of blue water miles, alternated on the boat for Roy and I most of the time. All of you are great to sail with – great advice, great motivators and great sportsmen. Melbo, Bryan, Dr. Bill, John Sutak, and Randy Smith have all been great encouragers and competitors from SFYC. Thanks!

In September of 04, we raced the boat in the Etchells North Americans. Roy, Ashley, and a girl from Oregon sailed with me. This was my first big fleet event. As a less than practiced team against tough competition, our goal was not to be last, which we fortunately accomplished. Ashley, the amazing boat handler and worker that she is, did bow for us all day in tough conditions and worked on boats late into the evening during the whole week. She taught me a lot about boat repairs – gelcoat, fiberglass, trailer care, standing rigging, deck work, and more over the course of my last summer in SF.

As most of you know, I’ve moved into a new partnership in 1055 in Miami. At North Americans this year, we (my new partner Chris and Randy Smith) finished well up into the top half of the fleet at 19th, managing to beat a few pros and all the women skippers. One of my SF friends commented in a congratulatory email that it made me the fastest female Etchells skipper in North America. A good general feeling, but at the moment, there are only a few of us. Contrary to recent reports, the class is growing, and I’m seeing more women out there as crew and as skippers, which is great.

Thanks so much to all of you who made learning the boat such a pleasure. While I’m glad to sell Scarlett, I will enjoy the memories and most of all I am thankful for your friendship!

Paige

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